Polki vs. Kundan: The Truth Behind Pakistan’s Most Royal Jewelry Styles

February 7, 2026

When a bride begins shopping for her main wedding day (Baraat) jewelry, she almost always gravitates towards the regal, heavy look of traditional heritage jewelry. She hears words like "Polki," "Kundan," and "Jadau" thrown around by aunties and shopkeepers alike.

Often, these words are used as if they mean the same thing. They do not.

This confusion is dangerous. We have seen heartbroken clients bring in "Polki" sets bought elsewhere for valuation, only to be told they bought glass stones for the price of diamonds.

At Hamzah Anis, transparency is our core value. Since we manufacture our own pieces, we know exactly what goes into them. Here is the definitive guide to understanding the difference between Polki and Kundan, ensuring you invest in a true asset.

1. What is Polki? (The Real Diamond)

Polki is, quite simply, a diamond. Specifically, it is an uncut, natural diamond.

Unlike the sparkling "solitaire" diamonds (which are cut and faceted by machines to sparkle), Polki diamonds are kept in their raw, natural state. They are sliced but not faceted. This gives them a soft, glowing finish rather than a sharp sparkle.

The Value: Because Polki is a natural diamond, it holds significant value. It is mined from the earth. A heavy Polki bridal set is an investment comparable to gold bullion or property. It is an heirloom that retains intrinsic worth forever.

2. What is Kundan? (The Technique vs. The Stone)

This is where it gets tricky. "Kundan" technically refers to pure gold foil used to set stones. It is a technique, not a stone.

However, in the commercial Pakistani market today, when a shopkeeper says "Kundan Jewelry," they are almost always referring to Glass or Synthetic Stones set in gold-plated metal. It mimics the look of Polki but has zero resale value in terms of stones.

The Difference: If you are buying "Kundan" from a general bazaar, you are likely buying costume jewelry. If you are buying "Polki" from a Fine Jeweler like Hamzah Anis, you are buying natural diamonds.

3. What is Jadau? (The Art Form)

Jadau is the art of setting the stone. It is the technique brought to South Asia by the Mughals.

In Jadau work, gold is heated until it is malleable, and the Polki (diamond) is pressed into it. No glue or prongs are used. It is widely considered one of the most difficult jewelry techniques in the world.

So, a bridal set can be "Polki Jadau" (Uncut diamonds set using the Jadau technique). This is the pinnacle of luxury.

4. How to Spot the Difference

How can you tell if a set is real Polki or artificial Kundan?

Look at the Light: Real Polki diamonds reflect light softly. They have a "watery" or "liquid" shine. Glass Kundan stones often look flat or overly shiny like a mirror because they have foil backing that is too reflective.
Look at the Inclusions: Because Polki is a natural earth-mined diamond, it will have tiny internal marks (inclusions). If the stones in a set look 100% clear and identical to each other, it is likely glass. Nature rarely makes two identical stones.
The Price Tag: There is no such thing as "Cheap Polki." If a heavy bridal necklace is being offered to you for a price that seems too good to be true, it is not Polki. It is likely glass or treated crystal.

5. The Investment Perspective

Many families ask: "Should we buy Polki for the wedding?"

Our answer is always yes, provided it is Real Uncut Polki.

Unlike trends that fade (like rose gold or specific geometric shapes), Polki is timeless. A Polki set bought in 1950 looks just as royal in 2025. It is immune to fashion cycles.

Furthermore, because Hamzah Anis uses high-karat gold for our Jadau settings, the metal weight itself acts as a savings account. It is the perfect marriage of beauty and financial security.

6. The "Open Setting" Innovation

Traditionally, Polki was closed from the back with Gold or Enamel (Meenakari). However, Hamzah Anis has pioneered "Open Setting" Polki designs.

By leaving the back of the diamond open (similar to how we set solitaires), we allow light to pass through the uncut diamond. This makes the Polki look brighter and more brilliant than traditional antique sets. It is a modern twist on a 400-year-old tradition, perfect for the bride who wants heritage with a contemporary edge.

Conclusion

Your wedding jewelry is not a costume prop; it is the beginning of your family's wealth. Do not settle for glass masquerading as diamonds.

Visit the Hamzah Anis showroom to view our certified Natural Polki collection. Use a loupe, see the inclusions, and understand the difference that authenticity makes.